Royal Snooker

 

 

For detailed

cue advice

,

cue tip

,

cue maintenance

.

Cue Care

  • Don’t lean your cue against a wall or any other surface. As this may bend the end of your cue.
  • Don’t leave your cue next to a heat source like a radiator or in a hot car. As this may warp your cue.
  • Be careful not to bang the cue butt on hard floors. Although Elegance cues have a protective leather covering on the bottom of the cue, banging the end of the cue on a hard floor can cause the wood splices to split.
  • Try to store your cue flat, in a cue rack or ideally in a hard case. As this will help to prevent your cue warping or getting bent.
  • Transport your cue in a case where possible to avoid knocks.
  • Bed your new cue’s tip in (see bedding in your cue tip below).

Your Cue Tip

  • All our cues come with stick on tips. Cheaper cues use screw on or push on tips but professionals always use stick on tips.
  • These tips are designed to be easily removed and changed either when they are worn down or when a player wishes to change the tip for one he or she prefers (i.e. a harder or softer tip or a different make).
  • The tips can be removed by using a sharp blade like a stanley knife and sliding it between the tip and the cue (this should only be done by an adult and extreme care should be taken).
  • As these tips are designed to be easily removed, occasionally with a new cue and the vibrations of transportation during delivery the tip may fall off (as detailed in the BBC link below).

Re-Tipping Your Cue

  • Essentially make sure the tip and cue surfaces are clean, maybe using a piece of sand paper.
  • Use superglue (ideally gel based as water based superglue can be too brittle) or a cue tip cement to attach your tip.
  • Then place the tip on the cue and press down firmly with your finger. Leave the cue for as long as possible to form a good bond, ideally overnight at least.
  • Please see the bottom of this page for more detailed advice on re-tipping your cue.

Bedding in Your New Cue or Cue Tip

  • Every new cue obviously has a new tip and it is important to bed it in as you would if you had replaced the tip.
  • This involves playing only gentle shots with your  cue when first used, ideally as many gentle shots as possible.

Is My Cue Cracked?

  • My Cue Makes a Funny Sound When I Play a Shot, a Twang Like it’s Cracked.
  • Don’t worry if you had split your cue it would be very obvious.
  • The common cause of this effect is a loose tip and is simply cured by removing and re-glueing your tip.
  • When you remove your tip it may be worth checking the brass ferrule. Not to forcefully, try to pull the ferrule off or see if it moves slightly, if so add a bit of tip cement or gel based superglue and replace. Re-tip the cue and then leave over night (at least) and you’ll be left with a cue with a lovely feel.

Minor Scratches on Ash Shaft

  • If you manage to get small scratches on the Ash shaft of your cue you should be able to remove these scratches using wire wool and then polishing wish clear bee’s wax.
  • You can maintain your cue by polishing it with clear bee’s wax every five years or as needed. Wax a small area first to see that you are happy with the feel on your hand first.

 

Re-Tipping Your Cue Instructions

  • With a bit of practise, re-tipping a cue should be a two second job.
  • To avoid getting glue everywhere:- squeeze the glue so you just get a bubble of glue coming out then just dab the tip on this bubble (you do not need to cover the whole of the underside of the tip, you only want a very small amount). If there is too much wipe the tip gently on some paper or card to remove the excess. Then hold the tip on the cue and twist the tip or the cue to make sure they are completely coated. Remove the tip to check this is the case, if not dab the tip on the glue bubble again. Remember you do not need a thick layer of glue, you only need a very fine coating because when you put the tip clamp on it will squeeze the glue to any uncoated areas.
  • You do not need to get the tip exactly in line (when the cues are manufactured the tips are actually sanded down to fit perfectly).
  • Ttips on getting it straight are:- When you put the tip clamp on it tends to pull the tip towards it as you tighten it, so start with the tip fractionally away from the clamp. Once the clamp is on check  round the tip to see if it is on straight, any areas that look like they are overhanging, gently tap with your finger nail until they are straight. Then avoid touching the cue again and leave it overnight for the glue to harden properly.
  • You don’t have to use a tip clamp, you can just hold the tip with your finger for a minute or two but it is easier with a tip clamp.

 

How to Check if your Cue is Straight

The following technique is used to check a cue is straight, as per the Riley's leaflets. DO NOT check your cue by rolling it, this will not tell you if your cue is straight (there are many reasons for this and if you want further information please e-mail us).

  • First remove the shaft from the butt of the cue, take the shaft only and hold the shaft up to your eye with the tip pointing away from you so you can look down the cue.
  • Hold the cue so you can look down it against a black background to highlight the edge of the cue (the dark grain can cause an illusion of the cue bending so you need a dark background to show the true edge of the cue).
  • If the cue is warped at all it will be blatantly obvious, you will not need to strain your eyes or think you can see a slight bend, it will be very clear.
  • As a note the cue will have natural very slight undulations due to the hard a soft constituents of the grain and will also be tapered towards the tip (this tapering may vary slightly but does not mean the cue is not straight).
  •  

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